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10 km from Bikaner is the camel bredding farm, is the only such facility in India. It is a research institute and photography is – you guessed it – prohibited. There is a strong smell around the area, which city people like me find somewhat intolerable. It is worth tolerating this for a while, though, because here is a sight one may never see again, outside of a movie hall (or even within one). In a large enclosure, there are hundreds of camels, rubbing shoulders with each other, the young ones staggering around, close to their mothers, stretching their long necks high; the sounds of their ethereal whoops and cries fills the air. The whole scene is like something out of Hollywood and it is hard to believe that this is real. It is possible to reach out and touch the camels through the fence, but probably inadvisable, since camels are not known to be the most docile of creatures and are quite capable of biting the hand that doesn’t even feed them.

Bikaner's architectural grandeur can be experienced today at the Lalgarh Palace, The laxmi Vilas Palace anf the magnificient Junagarh Fort where visitors feel the ebb and flow of history in the last two hundered years. The desert dominates Bikaner. Among the largest and illustrious of theformer princely states of India the legacy of Bikaner has been kept alive through palaces and royal retreats. But its harshness has never diminished the warmth, hospitality and creativity of the people.